Offer for the Cosmetics Industry

Łukasiewicz – Industrial Chemistry Institute has a fully equipped analytical laboratory for determining the purity of cosmetic raw materials and their content in the market product. At the customer’s request, we can develop a methodology for determining the identity and purity of a selected organic compound.The most commonly used methods for testing the identity and purity of active substances in cosmetics are chromatographic (GC, TLC and HPLC) and spectrophotometric methods..

In addition, to confirm identity and purity, we perform testing of physicochemical properties, such as solubility and chemical reactions specific to the substance.

Examples of active ingredients labeled in cosmetic products:

• preservatives,
• antioxidants and UV protectants
• Vitamins A, C and E, B vitamins (folic acid, biotin)
• disinfectants
• odor fresheners
• ingredients of moisturizers (amino acids, including those containing the aromatic ring),
• soothing and calming substances (allantoin),
• ingredients of coloring substances (phenylenediamine, pyridine, aminophenols, phenols: resorcinol and hydroquinone).

Physical and chemical tests

We perform a wide range of physical and chemical tests, including:

• organoleptic evaluation (appearance, color, smell, texture),
• pH determination,
• pomiar gęstości,
• solubility tests,
• determination of dynamic and kinematic viscosity,
• determination of foaming properties and foam durability,
• surface tension measurement,
• determination of the emulsifying capacity of fats,
• assessing the homogeneity of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions, measuring the size of the dispersed phase,
• stability tests: thermal stability, mechanical stability (storage and centrifuge tests),
• testing viscosity changes with an accelerated aging test,
• aging tests conducted to, for example, estimate expiration date, assign PAO (aging chambers),
• determination of water content,
• determination of acid number and saponification of separated wax-fat substances,
• determination of resistance to oxidative changes,
• dry residue determination,
• bulk weight determination,
• measuring the average discharge rate,
• determination of the solubility of the preparation in water,
• as well as other tests performed on behalf of the client.

Evaluation of performance characteristics under laboratory and real-world conditions

We perform application testing of cosmetics and household chemical products to confirm their efficacy and effectiveness. We are accredited by PCA AB113 for selected determinations.

1. Comparative study of cosmetics and household chemical products.
2. Study of washing cosmetics and household chemical products from the group of detergents with special emphasis on irritant properties:

• determination of irritant effect by the Kjeldahl method (zein number).

3. Determination of the lipophilicity of the compound and thus the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum (n-octanol/water partition coefficient log P_o/w).
4. Performance evaluation

• Washing agents:

– evaluation of washing performance under real-world conditions,

– testing washing ability, encrustation, decrease in tear strength, graying, yellowing, shrinkage, discoloration, whiteness retention, softening of washed products

• Liquid dishwashing detergents:

test of washing ability by IKW test and ability to emulsify fats–

• Sanitary cleaning products:

– testing the ability to dissolve water scale

• Cleansing milks and powders:

– testing the ability to wash and damage surfaces.

• Oxygen and chlorine bleaches:

whitening ability test,–

– assessment of the degree of fiber damage, color discoloration, yellowing.

• Fabric softeners:

– study of softening effect, elimination of static electricity,

– changes in the whiteness of products,

– evaluation of moisture absorption capacity

• Glass cleaning products:

– testing of dirt removal capacity, dry matter, alcohol content.

5. Study of total biodegradation of organic compounds, including detergents:

• total biodegradation test by manometric respirometry,
• total biodegradation test by measuring the loss of dissolved organic carbon (DOC),
• testing the degree of inhibition of activated sludge respiration,
• determination of chemical oxygen consumption (COD),
• determination of dissolved organic carbon (DOC)

Marketing statements

Regulation 1223/2009/EC introduced several important provisions for cosmetic product communication, or marketing declarations. According to Article 20, declarations of product characteristics must be true, and this is the primary criterion for evaluating them. The Commission developed common criteria for the use of declarations, which were published as Commission Regulation 655/2013/EC. The term common means that the criteria apply to all cosmetic products and types of declarations and the information channel.

Łukasiewicz – Industrial Chemistry Institute has a qualified staff of specialists who will reliably determine the common criteria for the application of the declaration in the following areas:

• regulatory compliance,
• the veracity of the information provided,
• evidence,
• compliance with the facts,
• integrity.

It should be remembered that the marketing regulation system is not only the criteria of this regulation but also advertising regulations, consumer regulations and rules for qualifying borderline products, comprehensively described in the guide: Good Practices for Marketing Declarations and Advertising of Cosmetics, developed by the Polish Association of the Cosmetics Industry.

We provide expertise to position the product in the market and determine the appropriate marketing activities, ie:

• comparative studies of products from the same company or different manufacturers,
• definition of quality differentiators,
• inspection of products before they enter commerce,
• confirmation of compliance of the product with technical conditions, quality specifications,
• checking the compliance of product packaging labeling with the regulations in force in Poland.

OBTAINING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

• botanical extracts
• ionic liquids
• peptides and hydrolysates of proteins of natural origin

BIOSTIMULANTS OF PLANT ORIGIN

• protection against the growth of microorganisms

COSMETICS AND HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS

• with reduced irritant effect
• based on natural resources
• meeting European certification standards (e.g. Cosmos, Ecocert)

NUTRITIONAL SUPPLEMENTS

• celery and parsley fruit extract
• SPINALPEP – a nutraceutical to support multiple sclerosis therapy
• hydrolysates of plant proteins – skin regeneration and reconstruction
• hydrolysates of zoonotic proteins

– protection of the skin against UV radiation

– nutrition and protection against irritation

COSMECEUTICALS RICH IN BIOLOGICALLY ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

• multifunctional ingredients to support the skin barrier
• proteins, fatty acids, essential oils

R+D work and research projects

The scientific staff of Łukasiewicz – Industrial Chemistry Institute in Warsaw have the necessary qualifications and experience to carry out basic, industrial research (BR) and development (PR).

Areas of interaction with industry:

• preparation and implementation of research projects using EU and regional program funds,
• conducting industrial research and development with the participation of the personnel potential and technical equipment of both parties,
• subcontracting services in BR/PR projects,
• providing consultations, preparing opinions and performing studies within the framework of individual scopes of activities,
• offer of internships and work placements for students,
• co-organizing courses, seminars and scientific conferences.

Łukasiewicz – ICI has extensive research infrastructure, laboratory and analytical facilities, apparatus and industrial halls. There is a possibility of providing laboratory, storage and production facilities for industrial research and development work aimed at transferring processes from the laboratory scale to the production area (scale-up) and building prototypes/pilot installations within the framework of projects.

Experience and qualifications

Experts at Łukasiewicz-Industrial Chemistry Institute are highly qualified and have the necessary experience to carry out industrial and development work, in the field of chemical and technical sciences.

We specialize in:

• obtaining biologically active substances,
• developing innovative formulations,
• determination of physical and chemical properties,
• performing performance tests, the purpose of which is to confirm the product properties declared by the manufacturer.

We have professional equipment and experienced, highly qualified staff of chemists, biotechnologists and cosmetologists. We operate on the basis of modern methods of cosmetics testing, in accordance with the new EU law.

Cosmetics – Regulation 1223/2009/EC

Requirements for cosmetic products are regulated by Community law, i.e. the provisions of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council. At the national level, institutions responsible for supervision and penalties for non-compliance with the regulation are defined – in Poland by the provisions of the Law on Cosmetics, Dz. U. 2001 no. 42 item 473 with amendments.

The aim of Regulation 1223/2009/EC is to ensure a high level of safety of cosmetic products on the EU market, while simplifying procedures and agreeing on terminology, thereby reducing the administrative burden and legal uncertainties that exist between the legislations of individual EU countries.

Household chemical products – Regulation 648/2004/EC

Regulation 648/2004/EC on detergents, is a law directly applicable in EU countries and is not subject to interpretation.

It introduces two major changes regarding the biodegradability of detergent surfactants: the requirement to confirm ultimate aerobic biodegradation for detergent surfactants, the inclusion of cationic and amphoteric surfactants in the biodegradation criteria as well.

The regulation specifies what information must be made available to consumers through websites and on packaging, as well as the information that manufacturers are required to keep, and which they are to provide to medical personnel and competent authorities upon request.

Training and consulting

Łukasiewicz – Industrial Chemistry Institute conducts training and didactic activities in the application of modern research techniques and quality systems for raw materials and final products. It offers closed-door training – prepared to meet the needs of the individual customer.

• The topic is prepared in terms of the company being trained. The lecturer gets acquainted in advance with the company’s business profile and on this basis prepares a presentation and workshop. The specifics of the plant, employment structure, equipment structure, functioning quality systems, etc. are taken into account. During the training, time is reserved for a panel discussion.
• Training sessions are held in the fully equipped Łukasiewicz – ICI research laboratory (in groups of 10) and/or the Łukasiewicz – ICI multimedia conference room or at the client’s premises.

Examples of training:

• Certification of natural and organic cosmetics
• The use of ingredients of natural origin in cosmetics
• Transepidermal transport in cosmetology
• Cosmetics for sensitive skin
• Physical and chemical forms of the product
• Cosmetics safety
• Placing cosmetics on the market in light of the provisions of Regulation 1223/2009
• Legal aspects of cosmetics marketing
• The latest scientific developments in the cosmetics industry
• Apparatus and sensory testing

PCA Accreditation

Industry Analytics and Biodegradation Section (Chemical Technology Research Group).

Rydygiera 8 Str., 01-793 Warsaw

Contact

Eng. Renata Dudek

phone +48 517 883 166

renata.dudek@ichp.lukasiewicz.gov.pl